I am happy and proud to announce that my first book-length work is now available for purchase. This eBook applies the concepts of yoga, eastern philosophy, and western psychology to the sport of rock climbing. More specifically, it shows the reader how to use these methods to help improve their climbing performance.
I’ve seen the techniques in this book help everyone from a six-year-old girl panicking at the top of her first indoor climb, to Ethan Pringle on his send of Jumbo Love. It doesn’t matter how strong or experienced you are—this book is for everyone.
I want to thank the readers of this blog for all of their support over the years. Without your comments, readership, and donations I’m not sure if I would have had the gumption to write something of this magnitude. For that reason, this book is dedicated to all of you. Another huge thank you goes out to Sander DiAngeles and Natalie Siddique for their help with editing, formatting, and design.
An excerpt from my author’s note:
I pulled into the Buttermilks stressed out, broken hearted, completely out of climbing shape, and a few pounds heavier than normal. I only had two things: a desire to be surrounded by something other than rush hour traffic, and a faint flicker of climbing psych.
I told myself to not worry about grades or projects because surely I would not be climbing as hard as usual. At first, I was right. Climbing felt terrible. I felt heavy, tired, and frustrated. Just pulling off the ground for a warm-up took everything I had. A big part of me just wanted to leave and never climb again, but I had promised I wasn’t going anywhere until I came back to myself. So I stayed. I just kept climbing. And because of Bishop’s exposing high desert terrain and the vulnerable nature of rock climbing, escaping my emotions wasn’t available anymore. I had to let it all in.
And within a few weeks, something strange happened.
I flashed climbs that I assumed would take me the entire season. I sent a previous multi-year project on my first try. I sent my hardest boulder problem to date. The pain was still there, but I felt light, energized, and clear-headed.
I wondered, what the hell is going on?
I was confused because this went against everything I had been taught about the things that impact rock climbing performance. I was always told that performing at a high level or breaking into new grades required a training schedule, strict dieting, and hours in the gym.
This book is the answer to what the hell was going on.
There’s no denying that physical training is a key component in climbing performance. But this is only one part of the equation. Many climbers and trainers overlook the power of the mind, breathing, emotions, and attitude when it comes to sending a hard route. The teachings you’ll find in the next chapters are not a replacement for physical training, but a valuable and important addition to it.
This book was born because of a winter spent living in my Subaru in the Buttermilks, but I have been studying western psychology, eastern philosophy, yoga, and climbing for several years. I want to share this knowledge with you because of its incredible ability to enhance your climbing and change your life. Whether you’re a true beginner or a professional rock climber, projecting 5.8 or 5.15, spend hours on the hangboard or have never trained in your life—Modern Redpointing is for you.
This is what I’ve learned.
If this book doesn’t apply to your interests but you still wish to support my work, you can make a donation to my writing by clicking here. Donations of any amount are greatly appreciated and help keep this blog alive. Thank you all for reading and the endless support.